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Pskov Region — 60rus

city of PSKOV 3


Pskov (Псков) — administrative center of Pskov Region in North-Western Russia. Population — 200 thousands (2004); geographic coordinates 57°50´ N, 28°20´ E. Pskov is situated at both banks of River Velikaya, at the confluence of River Pskova. Historically, the city is subdivided into the Center (the right bank of River Velikaya and the left bank of River Pskova), Zapskov'e (the right bank of River Pskova), and Zavelich'e (the left bank of River Velikaya).

It is one of the oldest Russian cities. Pskov is first mentioned in Russian chronicles in 903, on the occasion of the wedding of Kiev prince Igor (the son of Ryurik, the first prince of Old Rus), and the future princess Olga (later canonized and known as Saint Olga), who was a native of Pskov. However, the settlement at this place existed long before that, at least from 9th century. First, Pskov was directly ruled by Kiev princes (as well as all the other Old Rus). After Novgorod became independent, in 12th-14th centuries Pskov was subordinate to Novgorod. It is interesting that Pskov citizens had special rights: They were allowed to participate in Novgorod veche — popular assembly which had the supreme authority in Novgorod — as if they were Novgorod citizens. At the same time, they elected their own princes, not necessarily the same ones as in Novgorod. Thus, from 1266 to 1299 the prince of Pskov was Lithuanian refugee Dovmont (Christian name — Timofey). As well as Novgorod, Pskov lied too far North and was spared from the Monghol invasion. Its subsequent history is determined by the convenient location at the trading ways between Russia and the Baltic region, and also by the fact that the city was always a Western Russian outpost. For many centuries, till 1700s, Pskov was involved in wars with German knight orders, Lithuania (later Poland), Sweden, and also periodically had hostile relations with neighboring Novgorod. Even though close surroundings of the city (including Mirozh monastery) were plundered many times, Pskov was never conquered. In 1348, it became fully independent from Novgorod, and in 1510 joined the Moscow state. At the times of Ivan the Terrible, Pskov managed to avoid the fate of the neighboring Novgorod, which was plundered by the troops sent for this purpose by Ivan. In 1581, during the Livonian war between Russia and Poland, Pskov was sieged by the Polish troops of king Stefan Batory, but survived. At the Time of Troubles — the period 1606-1610, when Russia was in chaos and the statehood was in danger — the city supported both False Dimitris, Polish backed contenders to the Russian throne, but refused to take an allegiance oath to Polish prince Vladislav. In 1707, in the course of the first administrative reform of Peter the Great, Pskov was included into Ingermanland (Saint-Petersburg) Governorship. From 1777 it became a center of its own, Pskov governorship. After the Northern War and annexation of Baltic states by Russia (1721) the state border was moved far away West from Pskov, and the latter gradually turned into an ordinary provincial town. In 1917 at Pskov train station Tsar Nicholas the Second signed his abdication; in 1918, Pskov for nine months was occupied by German troops. The city was also occupied, and also by Germans, during the Second World War, from July 1941 till July 1944, and considerably damaged during the occupation.

Pskov initially rose as a trade and craft town, which also had an important strategic (defence) importance. Until 1650 (which is 150 years after it was appended to Muscovy) Pskov issued its own coins. The city developed its unique school of icon painting, which is easily distinguishable even from the closest one in Novgorod. In 18th — 19th centuries the city passed through a period of economy decline. Industry appeared already in Soviet times . For a long time Pskov was an important railway hub (with trains departing in the directions of Moscow, Saint-Petersburg, Tallinn, and Minsk), but after the breakup of the Soviet Union lost this function.

 What to see

Time required: at least a day (not counting the surroundings).

Why to visit Pskov: Pskov and close surroundings are famous for their unique monuments of art and architecture, which are created in special Pskov style in 11th-17th centuries. Excellent views of Kremlin, city wall and churches at both banks of River Velikaya.


Kremlin from Zavelich'e. Photo: 
         Yaroslav Blanter

Kremlin from Zavelich'e. Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Kremlin (Krom), an ancient Russian fortress, is situated at the confluence of Rivers Pskova and Velikaya, at the right bank of River Velikaya. It consists of two parts. The first one is the inner fortress (Kremlin proper) with Troitsky Sobor (Trinity Cathedral). Next to the cathedral, there is former veche square, where veche was held in ancient times. The second part is the external Dovmont fortress. Unlike the majority of other Russian fortresses, Pskov was involved in military action until 18th century. This is why the city conserves a lot of fortifications, many of them dating back from 15th century.

The inner fortress is the most ancient part of the city. Walls with towers along the high bank of River Velikaya (from the gun-slots here there is an excellent view of Zavelich'e), along the bank of River Pskova, and also the inner wall, were all built in the beginning of 15th century and later restored. In the Northern "corner" of the wall covered galleries descend from Bashnya Kutekroma (Kutekroma Tower, 1400) to Ploskaya Bashnya (Flat Tower, 16th century). In the center of Kremlin one finds Troitsky Sobor (Trinity Cathedral, 1682—1699, rebuilt later, regular services) and the bell-tower from 18th century.

From the South, the inner fortress is adjacent to an outstanding archaeological monument — Dovmont fortress, which used to maintain an immense density of churches, public offices, and possibly even cemeteries. Currently only the foundations of the churches are visible. The only historical building is Prikaznye Palaty (Departmental Chamber, 1695) with a high restored porch. Inside the building there are exhibition rooms of the Museum-Reserve: On the ground floor — "Pskov during the Northern War", on the first floor the interior of Prikaznye Palaty is restored. One more tower, Vlas'evskaya Bashnya (St. Blaise Tower, 14th century), is situated in the part of the fortress wall facing River Velikaya.

Access to Kremlin is free of charge, from 6:00 to 22:00 (the cathedral is open till 18:00); daily services in Trinity Cathedral (morning and evening services).

The fortress wall. At the foreground
         Ploskaya Bashnya (Flat Tower), behind it River Pskova and Vysokaya Bashnya 
         (Tall Tower). On the left River Velikaya. Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

The fortress wall. At the foreground
Ploskaya Bashnya (Flat Tower), behind it River Pskova and
Vysokaya Bashnya (Tall Tower). On the left River Velikaya.
Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

City fortifications. Beside the walls surrounding Kremlin, also the external wall is preserved. It encloses the whole city center and crosses River Pskova twice. At the places of the crossings used to be arcs with bridges above and grilles below — hence the names Verkhnie and Nizhnie Reshetki (Upper and Lower Grilles). Partially conserved Pokrovskaya Bashnya (Intercession Tower, 16th century) has a circumference of 90 meters and is the biggest fortress tower in Europe. The following parts of the wall are preserved and partially restored: From Pokrovskaya Bashnya to Petrovskaya Bashnya (St. Peter Tower) and to Mikhaylovskaya Bashnya (St. Michael Tower), a piece in Zapskov'e from Gremyachaya Bashnya to Varlaamskaya uglovaya Bashnya (St. Varlaam corner Tower) and eventually to Vysokaya Bashnya (Tall Tower), which is located just opposite to Kremlin, and also a piece along the bank of River Velikaya up to Mstislavskaya Bashnya (Mstislav Tower). Almost all of them were built in 16th century. Next to Pokrovskaya Bashnya there is so called Batory Gap — a part of the wall was destroyed by the cannons of Polish king Stephan Batory during the siege of Pskov in 1581. To the South of the Gap there is the monument commemorating 300 years of the Pskov siege (1881, architect Kislinsky).

Civil architecture. A relatively big number of preserved merchant houses — stone palaty (singular — palata) of 17th century — remind us of a long gone wealth of Pskov. Monuments of civil architecture of that time are very rare for Russia (most of the buildings at the time were wooden and did not survive), and in Pskov in particular we have a large collection of buildings erected at approximately the same time and in the same very recognizable style. No other Russian town or city has this. Palaty have two or three floors, of which only the upper one had living rooms; they are painted in white and decorated by recognizable porches. We only list the best preserved ones. In the Southern part of the city center, next to Ploshchad' Pobedy, one finds Pogankiny palaty (House of Pogankin, Ulitsa Nekrasova, 7), Pervye i Vtorye palaty Menshikovykh (Fist and Second Houses of Menshikov Family, Sovetskaya ulitsa, 52), Tret'i palaty Menshikovykh (Third House of Menshikov Family, Ulitsa Nekrasova, 10а), palaty u Sokol'ey Bashni (House at the Falcon Tower, Komsomol'sky pereulok, 5), and palaty na Romanovoy Gorke (House on St. Roman Hill, Sovetskaya ulitsa, 52; considerably rebuilt in 18th and 19th centuries). At the left bank of River Pskova we can see palaty Yamskogo (House of Yamskoy, ulitsa Vorovskogo, 6), palaty Gur'eva (House of Gur'ev, ulitsa Krasnykh Partizan, 10), palaty Rusinovykh (House of Rusinov Family, ulitsa Karla Marksa, 10, not restored), Dom Pechenko (House of Pechenko, ulitsa Gogolya, 43), and Solodezhnya — palaty Lapina (Malt Store — House of Lapin, ulitsa Gogolya, 42; in 19th century was rebuilt and used as a storehouse). There are also palaty in Zapskov'e: palaty Postnikovykh (House of Postnikov Family, ulitsa Olega Koshevogo, 2) and palaty Trubinskikh (House of Trubinsky Family, ulitsa Leona Pozemskogo, 22, rebuilt in 18th and 19th centuries). At Gremyachaya Gora Hill in Zapskov'e the building of a Tanning factory from 17th century is preserved.

Apart from these, the city centrum and Zapskov'e preserved many monuments of civil architecture, representing living houses and industrial buildings of 18th and 19th centuries. Even though these buildings do not have such a high profile as old palaty and churches, they definitely contribute to the beauty of Pskov and remind of its past as a center of a provincial governorship.

Tserkov' Nikoly na Usokhe (Church
         of St. Nicholas on Usokha, 1536). Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Tserkov' Nikoly na Usokhe
(Church of St. Nicholas on Usokha, 1536).
Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Ecclesiastical architecture. The most remarkable part of Pskov architectural heritage — old churches, white, with one dome, very typical bellfries (sometimes they stand apart, sometimes are mounted at the roof) and porches. These features make a sharp contrast to other monuments of Russian architecture of the same time and make possible to talk about Pskov architecture style. The city preserved churches of 12th — 15th centuries. In the major part of Russia all buildings of that time were destroyed by Mongols and eventually by the wars Russian princes fought against each other. Many Pskov churches were part of monasteries which are currently destroyed or abolished.

In the city center: Tserkov' Mikhaila Arkhangela (Church of Archangel Michael, 1339, with a hip bell-tower from 17th century, regular services — Sovetskaya ulitsa, 18, next to the entrance to Kremlin); Tserkov' Nikoly na Usokhe (Church of St. Nicholas on Usokha, 1536 — Sovetskaya ulitsa, 19); Tserkov' Odigitrii (Church of the Virgin Odigitria, 1685, completely rebuilt in 19th century, not restored — Profsoyuznaya ulitsa, 1); Tserkov' Vasiliya na Gorke (Churh of St. Basil on the Hill, 16th century — Oktyabr'sky prospekt, 5, in the park); Tserkov' Anastasii Rimlyanki (Church of St. Anastasia the Roman, 1539, with a bell-tower appended to the church in 19th century and in strong contrast with the church — Oktyabr'sky prospekt, 9, in the park); Tserkov' Novogo Vozneseniya (New Ascension Church, 1467, rebuilt in 17th century, with a well preserved bellfry — ulitsa Nekrasova, 20); Tserkov' Georgiya so Vzvoza (Church of St. George from Vzvoz, 1494, looks especially impressive from the opposite bank of River Velikaya — Georgievskaya ulitsa, 1, one reaches the church from the embankment of River Velikaya); Tserkov' Pokrova ot Proloma (Intercession Church at the Gap, 16th century, the Northern part of the church was built later, in 1581, after the siege of Pskov by Stefan Batory — ulitsa Sverdlova, 1, next to Pokrovskaya Bashnya); Tserkov' Ioakima and Anny (Church of St. Joachim and Anna, 1544, with a bellfty from 17th century — ulitsa Kalinina, 26); Tserkov' Starogo Vozneseniya (Old Ascension Church, 16th century, regular services — Sovetskaya ulitsa, 26a). At the left bank of River Pskova — Tserkov' Petra i Pavla s Buya (Church of St. Peter and Paul from Buoy, 1373 — ulitsa Karla Marksa, 2); Tserkov' Pokrova ot Torga (Intercession Church at the Market, 1590, regular services — ulitsa Karla Marksa, 36), and Tserkov' Nikoly ot Torga (Church of St. Nicholas at the Market, 1676 — ulitsa Nekrasova, 35).

Sobor Ioanna Predtechi (Cathedral of 
         St. John the Baptist, 1240). Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.
         Ярослав Блантер

Sobor Ioanna Predtechi
(Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, 1240).
Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

In Zapskov'e: Tserkov' Kos'my i Damiana s Gremyachey Gory (Church of St. Cosima and Damian from Gremyachaya Gora, 1540 — Gremyachaya Gora); Tserkov' Bogoyavleniya s Zapskov'ya (Epiphany Church in Zapskov'e, 1494, with a separately standing five-column bellfry — ulitsa Gertsena, 7); Tserkov' Nerukotvornogo Obraza s Zhab'ey Lavitsy (Church of the Redeemer Not Painted by Human Hands at Zhab'ya Lavitsa, 16th century, regular services — Pervomayskaya ulitsa, 27); Tserkov' Kos'my i Damiana s Primost'ya (Church of St. Cosima and Damian at the Bridge, 1463, ulitsa Leona Pozemskogo, 5); Tserkov' Il'i Mokrogo (Church of St. Iliya the Wet, 1677, rebuilt in 19th entury, regular services — ulitsa Volkova, 9); Tserkov' Voskreseniya so Stadishcha (Resurrection Church from Stadishche, 1532, regular services of the Old Believers Church — ulitsa Nabat, 4a); Tserkov' Varlaama Khutynskogo (Church of St. Varlaam of Khutyn', 1495, regular services — ulitsa Leona Pozemskogo, 53).

In Zavelich'e: Tserkov' Uspeniya u Paroma (Assumption Church at the Ferryboat, 1521, with a separately standing bellfry, regular services — Rizhsky prospekt, 2, at the St. Olga Bridge opposite to Kremlin); Sobor Ioanna Predtechi (Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, 1240, the only preserved Pskov church which was built in the Novgorod architectural style, regular services — ulitsa Maksima Gor'kogo, 1, at the bank of River Velikaya downstream from Kremlin); Tserkov' Zhen-Mironosits (Church of the Holy Myrrh Bearing Women, 1546, regular services — at Mironositskoe Cemetery, Kommunal'naya ulitsa, 11); Tserkov' Nikoly ot Kamennoy Ogrady (Church of St. Nicholas at the Stone Wall, 16th century, regular cervices — ulitsa Rozy Luxemburg, 17); Tserkov' Klimenta ( St. Clement Church, 16th century — Ol'ginskaya naberezhnaya, 16, on the bank of River Velikaya). A miniscule Chasovnya Anastasii (Chapel of St. Anastasia, 1911 — Rizhskaya ulitsa) next to St. Olga bridge, was designed by a famous Russian architect Aleksey Shchusev, and painted inside by no less famous painter Nikolay Roerikh.

There also churches outside the city center. Next to Pokrovskaya Bashnya there is the only survived Pskov wooden church, Tserkov' Varvary Velikomuchenitsy (Church of St. Barbara the Martyr, 1618, regular services — ulitsa Plekhanovsky Posad). In the same part of the city, Petrovsky Posad, at Dmitrovskoe Cemetery, one finds Tserkov' Dmitriya Mirotochivogo (Church of St. Demetrius, 1534, regular services — ulitsa Plekhanovsky Posad, 74). At the left bank of River Pskova, among modern buildings, stands Tserkov' Nikoly Chudotvortsa v Lyubyatove (Church of St. Nicholas the Wondermaker at Lyubyatovo, 15th century, regular services). In the North-Western part of Pskov, there is Tserkov' Ioanna Bogoslova na Misharinoi Gore (Church of John the Evangelist at Misharina Gora, 1547 — Alleynaya ulitsa, 1). In Tsarevskaya Sloboda (right bank of River Pskova) — Tserkov' Konstantina i Eleny (Church of St. Constantin and St. Helen, 16th century, regular services — Krasnogorskaya ulitsa, 36). Finally, to the South of the city center, in Alekseevskaya Sloboda neighborhood, next to Ploshhad' Pobedy, there is Tserkov' Alekseya s Polya (Church of St. Alexios from the Field, 1540 — Sovetskaya ulitsa, 100).

It is interesting that in 20th century only two churches were built in Pskov: Tserkov' Alexandra Nevskogo (Church of St. Alexander Nevsky, 1908 — Mirnaya ulitsa, 1) in Zavelich'e and Tserkov' Voskreseniya (Resurrection Church) in 1997 at Orletsovskoe Cemetery.

Tserkov' Uspeniya u Paroma (Assumption Church at the Ferryboat, 1521). 
             At the left, the bellfry is clearly seen. Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Tserkov' Uspeniya u Paroma.
(Assumption Church at the Ferryboat, 1521).
At the left, the bellfry is clearly seen.
Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Mirozhsky Monastery is situated in Zavelich'e, at the confluence of rivers Mirozha and Velikaya, across the river from Pokrovskaya Bashnya. It was founded in the middle of 12th century. In Spaso-Preobrazhensky Sobor (Transfiguration Cathedral, 1156), the oldest building in Pskov, unique frescoes of 12th century are preserved. Only a handful of monuments of Russian culture from that time survived to our days. Frescoes are open for public, but may be closed due to the weather conditions (too humid or too cold). Even if there is no general access, usually the organized groups are admitted to the frescoes. In this case, it is usually possible to buy a ticket in the office and join one of the groups. Phone (8112) 46-73-02, open 11:00 — 17:30, closed on Monday and the last Tuesday of each month.

The monastery was returned to the Russian Orthodox Church in 1994. Besides the walls and Transfiguration Cathedral (which still belongs to the museum), it includes Stefanovskaya Tserkov' (St. Stephen Church, 17th century, regular services), House of the Prior (16th century) and cells (18th century).

Snetogorsky Monastery (Snyatnaya Ulitsa) is situated in the Northern part of the city, at the high bank of River Velikaya Snyatnaya Gora). It was founded in 12th century, in 1993 returned to the Church and transformed in the female monastery. In Rozhdestvesnky Sobor (Nativity Cathedral, 1310) frescoes from 1313 survived. The monastery contains also Tserkov' Nikolaya Chudotvortsa (Church of St. Nicholas the Wondermaker, 1519) and the monastery walls of 17th century. Next to the monastery (direction city) there is Tserkov' Petra i Pavla na Breze (Church of St. Peter and St. Paul at the Birch, 15th century, regular services) of former Sirotkin Monastery. To get there: take bus #1 to the terminal station (Snyatnaya Gora).


Pskov State Museum-Reserve of History, Architecture, and Art. Before WWII it was one of the best museums in Russia, but during the war the major part of the collection was destroyed or moved to Germany. After the war, the new collection was formed from various funds. The museum occupies several buildings, of which five are located in Pskov. The main building — Pogankiny palaty — contains the following expositions: Pskov Icons of 14th — 19th century (unique collection, in several rooms); Art Gallery (Russian painting of 18th — 20th centuries, many famous Russian artists are represented; the building was renovated in Summer 2003); Russian silver art of 16th — 20th centuries (one of the biggest collections in Russia); Folk art; and also exhibitions devoted to Pskov history prior to 17th century and during WWII. The museum also includes Prikaznye Palaty in Kremlin (Pskov history during the Northern War of 1700 — 1721 between Russia and Sweden; the interior of the Departmental Chamber is also restored). Other buildings which belong to the museums are Spaso-Preobrazhensky sobor of Mirozhsky Monastery, Tserkov' Nikoly na Usokhe and Tserkov' Pokrova ot Proloma.

The information center is in Prikaznye Palaty, phone (8112) 72-25-63. One can take guided tours. Phone in Pogankiny palaty: (8112) 16-25-17, (8112) 16-44-95. Address: Ulitsa Nekrasova, 7. Opening hours: 11:00 — 18:00, closed on Monday. Frescoes in Mirozhsky Monastery: phone (8112) 46-73-02, opening hours: 11:00 — 17:30, closed on Monday. Opening hours for the churches could not have been found out. Everything is closed on last Tuesday of each month. The information is as of August 2003.

Museum-Apartment of Yury Spegal'sky. Address: Oktyabr'sky prospekt, 14, apt. 74. Phone: (81122) 2-47-91. Opening hours: Wednesday 14:00 — 18:00, Saturday 14:00 — 17:00. Yury Pavlovich Spegal'sky was an artist, restorer and researcher of Pskov medieval architecture. The exposition shows documents and photos, art objects, including those made by Spegal'sky himself; a collection of tableware and toys.

Lenin Museum. Address: ulitsa Lenina, 3. Phones: (81122) 2-21-02, 2-97-57. "Iskra" printing press — pereulok Iskry, 5, phone: (8112) 72-48-96. Opening hours: 11:00 — 17:30, closed on Wednesday. The apartment used by Lenin when he lived in Pskov in 1900, after returning from the exile in Siberia. Furniture restored; there is an exposition featuring history of the Bolshevik (later Communist) party. The former printing press of the Bolshevik illegal newspaper "Iskra".

Railway museum. Address: Vokzal'naya ulitsa, 38, phone: (81122) 9-66-32. Opening hours: 10:00 — 18:00 daily May through October; 11:00 — 17:00 (Saturday 11:00 — 15:00, Monday and Tuesday closed) November through April. It is subordinate to the Central Museum of Oktyabr'skaya Railway (the one with the office in Saint-Petersburg).

 Around Pskov

Surroundings of Pskov feature a number of remarkable monuments of history and architecture. However, most of them are hard to reach by public transportation. Be prepared that if you do not have a car and you are not willing to pay for a taxi, visiting any of them can easily take a day including the travelling time.

Izborsk3 — a separate page is planned.

Pskovo-Pechorsky Monastery3 — a separate page is planned.

Vybuty3 — a place where Princess Olga was born. It is situated at the left bank of River Velikaya 15 km upstream from Pskov. Vybuty used to be a location of a strategically important ford across the river. Tserkov' Il'i Proroka (Church of St. Ilia the Prophet, 15th century) is preserved. One gets to Vybuty either by feet from Pskov along the river bank, or by car (road to Palkino, after the railway crossing at the exit from Pskov one continues straight for 8 km and then looks for the sign to the church). There is apparently no public transportation, but one can walk 2 km from the road Pskov - Palkino.

Spaso-Eleazarovsky Monastery2 — female, 30 km to the North of Pskov in the village of Elizarovo. The monastery was founded in 1425 as male. One of the famous monks here was Filofey, known for his formula that Moscow is the third Rome: Two Romes (meaning Rome and Constantinople) are gone, the third currently exists, and the fourth one will never materialize. Sobor Trekh Svyatiteley (Cathedral of Three Saints, 1574). To get there: by car (the highway to Gdov transits Elisarovo) or by bus.

Tserkov' Nikoly v Ust'e3 (Church of St. Nicholas in Ust'e, 15th century, regular services) is situated at the left bank of River Velikaya at the place where it flows into the Lake of Pskov, 16 km North of the city. It is wonderfully embedded in the landscape. Delta of River Velikaya contains about 40 islands. To get there: Only by car.

Ioanno-Bogoslovsky Krypetsky Monastery2 — male, 25 km North of Pskov. It was founded in 1485. Tserkov' Savvy Serbskogo (Church of St. Saba of Serbia, 1547). To get there: only by car (highway to Gdov, watch out the signs).

Tserkov' Uspeniya v Melyotovo3 (Assumption Church at Melyotovo, 1462) contains frescoes from 1465. It is a part of Pskov State Museum-Reserve, but we could not understand whether it has any regular opening hours. The church is situated 40 km East of Pskov. Geographic coordinates 57°49´ N, 28°57´ E. To get there: by car (highway to Porkhov, turn left to Veshki).

Videleb'e2 — the birth place of Ephrosine, the founder of Spaso-Eleazarovsky Monastery. Another saint, Nikandr of Pskov, a founder of Nikandr Monastery and one of the most adored Pskov saints, also was a native of Videleb'e. It is situated 30 km South-West of Pskov, at the bank of River Cherekha, close to the highway to Porkhov (Karamyshevo). Tserkov' Nikoly v Videleb'e (Church of St. Nicholas at Videleb'e, 16th century, rebuilt in 20th century, regular services).

Tserkov' Pokrova pogosta Znakhlitsy2 (Intercession Church of the pogost of Znakhlitsy, 15th century, rebuilt in 19th century, regular services). Znakhlitsy is a former pogost — a country churchyard — which is now a part of the village of Bolotovo, 30 km South-East of Pskov. To get there: by car (highway to either Porkhov or Ostrov, then turn to the road P59 and watch out for the sign to Nazimovo) or by bus.

 Practical Information

Time: Moscow time (GMT +3).

How to get there. By train from Moscow (12 hours, one or two trains per day, both arrive to Pskov in the morning and leave for Moscow late evening), Saint-Petersburg (5 hours, two or three trains per day, arrival to Pskov late evening or night, departure from Pskov in the middle of the night; over the day there are local trains (electrichka) with connection in Luga), and Riga (8 hours, arrival to Pskov and departure from Pskov in the middle of the night). A direct local train to Novgorod (7 hours, one daily). The train schedules (you need to type in Russian names) are available here; another website, in English, here.

By bus from Saint-Petersburg (up to 15 per day, most of them in transit), Riga (4 per day, all in transit), and Tallinn (1 to 2 per day). The schedules in Russian can be found here.

Bus and train stations are next to each other, about half an hour walk from the city center. To get to the city center, one can also take a local bus.

By car: from Moscow, follow E22 (M9 - the highway to Riga) to Pustoshka, and then turn North to E95 (M20). The distance is 750 km. From Saint-Petersburg E95 (M20) South, 300 km. From Novgorod, A116 and E95 (M20), 220 km. From Tallinn A202 and A212, 385 km. From Riga take A212, 300 km. From Vitebsk, E95 (M20), 370 km.

Where to eat. The list of cafés and restaurants of Pskov (in Russian) can be found here. We did not have opportunities to investigate all of them, but can recommend Café Cheburechnaya, Oktyabr'sky prospekt, 10a, Georgian cuisine, lunch around 200-300 roubles per person (August 2003).

Where to stay. Reasonable quality for an affordable price is not the strongest point of Pskov hotels. If you arrive from Moscow for a day, you can take two overnight train trips. If you plan to visit Izborsk, it might be a good idea to stay there. Note that we do not have any information whether these hotels could register your visum (if you are staying for more than three days; check with the hotel).

  • Hotel Rizhskaya: Rizhsky prospekt, 25 (in Zavelich'e, several blocks from St. Olga Bridge). Phones: (8112) 46-22-23, 46-76-12, 46-18-42, 46-15-52. Claims to be of European class. Website (in Russian only, booking possible, prices indicated). Singles from 560 roubles, doubles from 980 roubles per room (April 2005).

  • Hotel Krom: ulitsa Metallistov, 5 (closer to the railway station than to the city center). Phone: (81122) 3-90-07, fax: (8112) 16-73-64. Website (in Russian only, booking possible, prices indicated). A bed in a five-bed room without a bathroom — 200 roubles, singles — 880 roubles, double with a bathroom — from 1560 roubles per room (April 2005).

  • Hotel Edem: Rotnaya ulitsa, 44. : Ротная улица, 44. Phone: (81122) 16 39 57. Only 12 rooms, doubles from 1800 roubles per room.

  • Hotel Oktyabr'skaya. Oktyabr'sky prospekt, 36. Phones: (8112) 72-03-99, 16-48-81. Singles from 500 roubles, doubles from 800 roubles per room (February 2004).

  • Hotel Turist. Paromenskaya ulitsa, 4 (Zavelich'e, next to St. Olga Bridge, in front of the Kremlin). Phones: (8112) 44-51-52, 44-51-50. 44-51-51.

  • Hotel Tranzit. Ulitsa Dekabristov, 64. Phones: (8112) 22-44-36, 16-11-39. Singles from 400 roubles, doubles from 500 roubles per room (February 2004).

  • Hotel Kolos. Ulitsa Krasnykh Partizan, 6. Phones: (8112) 22-44-36, 16-11-39. Website (in Russian only, prices indicated)/ Singles from 1500 roubles, doubles from 1800 roubles per room (March 2006).

  • Motel Balthouse. Leningradskoe shosse, 19. Phone: (8112) 16-67-92.

 Additional Resources



 Photo — Kremlin

            Sobor (Trinity Cathedral, 1681). Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Troitsky Sobor (Trinity Cathedral, 1682—1699). Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.

Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.

Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.

Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.

 © Photo by the authors

 Photo — City

Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

A typical scene in the city center. Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.

Tserkov' Vasiliya na Gorke 
       (Churh of St. Basil on the Hill, 16th century). Photo: Yaroslav Blanter

Tserkov' Vasiliya na Gorke (Churh of St. Basil on the Hill, 16th century). Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.

Tserkov' Georgiya so Vzvoza (Church of St. George from Vzvoz, 1494). 
             Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.

Tserkov' Georgiya so Vzvoza (Church of St. George from Vzvoz, 1494). Photo: Yaroslav Blanter.

 © Photo by the authors

Directory 60rus Comments and Suggestions Русский

Author of this page: Yaroslav Blanter. Acknowledgements: Dmitri Fokin, Vasili Shelemin (eeyore), Vadim Zhivotovsky, Tatyana Leyfer. Last updated: 29.03.06.
2005 © Guide to Russia (Authors). All Rights Reserved.