Republic of Mariy El (12 rus), center — Yoshkar-Ola
(formerly Tsaryovokokshaysk). It is situated in the center of the European
part of Russian Federation, in the middle course of River Volga: A big
portion of the Republic is to the North of Volga, and a part of Gorno-Mariysky
District — to the South of Volga. Almost the whole area of Mariy-El is
covered by woods: pine-trees in the West, fir-trees and spruce — in the North
and Northeast, and mixed woods (conifers and broad-leaved trees) in the Southeast.
A good deal of the area is a swamped plain, which in the East changes to the hills
of Vyatsky Uval. Principal rivers: Volga (to be precise, Cheboksary water reservoir),
and its left tributaries: Vetluga, Rutka, Bolshaya and Malaya Kokshaga, Ilet';
the Northeastern corner of the Republic belongs to the basin of River Vyatka.
Official languages of the
Republic are Russian and Mari; 43% of the population are Mari. Less than the
half of the Mari (formerly known as Cheremis), about 320 thousands, live in the republic;
the rest are scattered, mostly in Bashkiria (Bashkortostan, about 105 thousands),
and in Kirov Region (50 thousands). Mari ethnos is subdivided into three dialect
and cultural groups: Gornye (Hill) Mari (right bank of River Volga — Gorno-Mariysky
District), Lugovye (Meadow) Mari — between Rivers Vetluga and Vyatka, and Eastern Mari
in Bashkiria. Mari language belongs to the Volga group of Finno-Ugric family
of languages. This means it is as close to Estonian and Finnish as say English
to Spanish. Mari is written on the basis of Cyrillic script, a number of
newspapers are published. A majority of native speakers are however elderly people,
and the Mari language made it to the UNESCO list of endangered languages. Despite the
christianization that was forced over the centuries, a big part of Mari population
still preserved pagan pre-Christian beliefs. Main folkloric festivals:
Peyledysh payrem (flower festival) — beginning of
June, the whole republic; Mariy muro payrem
(Mari song festival) — July, Yoshkar-Ola. At the same time, traditional Mari feasts are
different: Aga payrem — beginning of the
agricultural season, before ploughing; Uginde
payrem - feast of the harvest; Shyl Kas -
Autumn cattle slaughter; Shoryk Yol - New Year
(in the Winter).
Finno-Ugric tribes
populated the area of modern Western, Northern, and Central Russia since
prehistory. The archaeological sources discovered at the territory
of Mariy El date from 1st century BC. Since these tribes were non-literate until
modern times, all information we have on the history of Middle Volga comes from
Russian sources. Cheremis are first reliably mentioned in 12th century. At that time,
they had close relations with Volga Bulgar state, which was situated at the territory
of modern Tatarstan and was destroyed in 1236 by the Mongol troops of
Batu Khan, advancing to Russia. After that, apparently Mari allied with the
Golden Horde, the Mongol (later Tartar) state. From 14th century,
Mari also came in touch with Russians advancing to the East; in 1221, those founded
Nizhny Novgorod in the middle course of Volga. Russian-Tartar clashes in Mari land
became a common cause, with Mari siding with Tartars. Up to a certain moment Tartars
and Mari managed to prevail, but then Russian Tsar Ivan the Terrible brought
things in order: In 1546, the lands of Hill Mari (right bank of Volga) fell under
the control of Moscow, and in 1552 Tsar's army took Kazan', the capital of Tartars,
and Meadow Mari started to pay tribute to Moscow. Afterwards, colonization began:
Cheboksary was founded in 1557, Koz'modem'yansk in 1583, Tsaryovokokshaysk (now
Yoshkar-Ola) — in 1584. As a result of forcible christianization, Mari escaped
to woods, leaving the whole villages deserted behind. Things started to change under
Peter the Great: Mari were drafted to the army; scientific investigation of the
area began; first written sources of Mari language were compiled. Fist Mari grammar
by Pucek-Grigorowicz appeared in 1792. Despite these developments, Mari massively
supported Pugachev revolt against the authorities in 1773. In 1872, Kazan'
teacher seminary was opened. Its main purpose was to give education to the
representatives of Middle Volga people, including Mari. This gave a serious
push to the national revival: Mari schools were opened, books in Mari language
published, including school textbooks. After the 1917 October revolution, in 1920,
the Mari autonomy was formed. Later it became Mari Autonomous Republic, and
from 1991 — Republic of Mariy El. On the other hand, in 1920s they did not succeed
in establishing the unified language norm - the Hill and Meadow Mari dialects were
regarded to be on the par, which accelerated the vanishing of both dialects.
In 1930s, similarly to other autonomous republics, almost all educated Mari
and national intellectuals were executed. Slowly, Mari became a minority in
their own republic, and stimulation to preserve Mari language diminished.
Yoshkar-Ola has a railroad connection to Zelenodol'sk, which is on the
principal line from Moscow to Kazan'. The republic does not have any motorways and
only two federal paved highways - "Vyatka" Cheboksary - Yoshkar-Ola - Kirov and
P175 Yoshkar-Ola - Volzhsk - Zelenodol'sk. Other roads do not cross River Volga.
Passenger and cargo navigation on Volga.
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Bol'shaya Kokshaga National Reserve — conifer
forests of Mari Depression and oak woods of the flood-lands of
River Bol'shaya Kokshaga.
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Forest Lakes of Mariy El — see also karst lakes
in Mariy Chodra National Park.
- Between Rivers Vetluga and Rutka — transparent lakes Karas'yar,
Nuzh'yar.
- Between Rivers Bol'shaya Kokshaga and Malaya Kokshaga — Lake Tabashinskoe
(Zryv), the deepest lake in Mariy El.
- Between Rivers Malaya Kokshaga and Ilet' — Lakes Serebryanoe, Shirenga.
- Karst lakes to the East of River Ilet' — Morskoy Glaz, Mushenderskie.
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Kokshaysk — the oldest urban settlement of Mariy
El (1574). Pokrovskaya Tserkov'
(Intercession Church,
1793). Picturesque location on the left bank of River Volga, at the mouth of
River Malaya Kokshaga.
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Koz'modem'yansk —
Old merchant Volga town (founded 1583), numerous attractions.
- Quarters of old buildings, including carved wooden ones, 18th — 20th
centuries.
- Among architectural monuments —
Streletskaya Chasovnya (Strelets Chapel, 1698),
Troitskaya Tserkov' (Trinity Church, 1733),
Tikhvinskaya Tserkov' (Church of the
Tikhvin Virgin,
1827),
Smolensky Sobor (Cathedral of
the Smolensk Virgin, 1872).
- Grigor'ev Museum of Art and History — a good collection of Russian art.
- Ethnographic Open-Air Museum - devoted to the everyday life of Hill Mari,
several dozens of historic buildings.
- Merchant Life Museum.
- Ostap Bender Humor Museum. Ostap Bender is the leading character in one of the most
famous Russian satirical novels,
The Twelve Chairs
by Ilya Ilf and Evgeny Petrov, a part of which apparently takes place in
Koz'modem'yansk.
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Chalomkino — Nikolay Ignat'ev Museum of
Art and Literature, featuring Hill Mari language, literature, and
ethnography.
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Vladimirskoe —
Tserkov' Vladimirskoy Ikony Bozh'ey Materi
(Church of Vladimir Image of the Virgin, 1713).
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River Volga and its elevated right bank
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Mariy Chodra National Park — protects mixed
conifer and broad-leaved forests and karst relief, including the lakes in the
hills of Vyatsky Uval.
- Klenovaya Gora Area — mineral springs.
- River Ilet'.
- Karst lakes — Yal'chik, Konan'er, Glukhoe, Mushen'er, Kihier.
- Historical monuments — old Kazan' highway, Pugachev's oak-tree.
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Morki — Morki Museum of Art and
Literature; Bogoyavlenskaya Tserkov' (Epiphany
Church, 1819).
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Chavaynur — Memorial Museum-house of
writer
Sergei Chavayn.
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Karman-Kuryk Mountain — geological
denudations.
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Olyk'yal — Museum-house of poet
Nikolay Mukhin.
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Orshanka — Orshanka Museum of Peasant Labor and
Life, with a big ethnographical collection.
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Staroe Kreshcheno — Museum-house of
writer Yakov Mayorov-Shketan.
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Sernur — Sernur Museum of Art and Literature,
includes an ethnographic collection.
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Kuzhener —
Kuzhener Regional and Historical
Museum; Svyato-Nikol'sky Monastyr'
(Nicholas Monastery).
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Marisola —
Pokrovskaya Tserkov' (Intercession Church, 1880-1888),
presumably after a project of architect Gornostaev.
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Mari-Turek — Mari-Turek Regional Museum:
District history and ethnography.
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Novy Tor'yal —
Novy Tor'yal Regional Museum;
Voznesenskaya Tserkov'
(Ascension Church, 1819).
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Paran'ga —
Paran'ga Regional Museum.
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Volzhsk (formerly Lopatino) —
Regional Museum: history of the town and ethnography.
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Zvenigovo —
wooden Nikol'skaya Tserkov' (Nicholas Church, 1877);
Regional Museum. Picturesque location at the left bank of River Volga.
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Wooden Churches of Mariy El.
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Aktayuzh (Kilemary District) —
Nikol'skaya Tserkov' (Nicholas Church, 1900).
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Chkarino (Sovetsky District) —
Pokrovskaya Tserkov' (Intercession Church, 1915).
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Kum'ya (Kilemary District) —
Pokrovskaya Tserkov' (Intercession Church, 1866).
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Pet'yal (Zvenigovo District) —
Gur'evskaya Tserkov' (Gurias Church, 1896).
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Yoshkar-Ola (Tsarevokokshaysk) .
The city was founded in 1584 as Tsarevokokshaysk (Fortress of the Tsar on Kokshaga).
Till 1920 a tiny district town with just 13 streets. In 1919 renamed to Krasnokokshaysk
(Red Town on Kokshaga), and in 1920 became a center of the newly formed
Mari Autonomous Region. In 1927 renamed to Yoshkar-Ola ("Red City" in Mari).
- Remains of compact old (historic) town, 18th—20th centuries.
- Troitskaya Tserkov' (Trinity Church, 1736);
Voznesenskaya Tserkov' (Ascension Church, 1756);
Tikhvinskaya Tserkov' (Church of the Tikhvin
Virgin, 1774).
- Tserkov' Rozhdestva Bogoroditsy (Church of the Nativity of the Virgin,
1818) in the village of Semyonovka.
- Wood and stone carved houses.
- National Museum of Republic of Mariy El: Archaeological and ethnographic
collections representing Mari culture; applied art; natural exhibits.
- Fine Art Museum: Mari art; Russian art of 19th century.
- Museum of Folk Applied Arts.
- Museum of History of Yoshkar-Ola.
- Memorial museums of: Poet Nikolay Mukhin; composer Ivan Klyuchnikov-Palantay.
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Ezhovo — Female
Ezhovo-Mironositsky monastyr' (Monastery
of the Myrrh Bearing Women at Ezhovo), founded in 17th century, with preserved
architectural monuments — Mironositskaya Tserkov'
(Church of the Myrrh Bearing Women, 1719) and other monastery buildings (18th
century).
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Medvedevo — Regional Museum: Mari
life and ethnography; natural exhibits.
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Yurino
- Museum-reserve "The Sheremetev Castle"
(1885).
- Mikhaylo-Arkhangel'skaya Tserkov'
(Church of Archangel Michael, 1869-1889).
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Republic of Mariy El
Russian:
- Republic of
Mariy El: Tourism and Culture Information Center. Culture, history.
attractions.
- Cultural tourism in Republic of Mariy El. Collection of links,
some of them being down. All links are in Russian, but some merely show pictures
like traditional dress.
- Russian Province — Republic of
Mariy El. A huge collection of links, most of them are outdated, and
the vast majority have no relation to the topics covered by our website.
However, there are some useful ones, in particular, in the part
"Художественная галерея - Art Gallery".
- Website of Yoshkar-Ola
Diocese of Russian Orthodox Church. Detailed information, in particular, on
ecclesiastic architecture in the Republic. A vast collection of photos.
- Publications of State Archive
Service of Republic of Mariy El. In particular, prefaces (each for each district)
to a series of books "History of villages of Mariy El".
- Mariy El museums at the website "Museums of Russia".
- Traveling in
Mariy El. The website mainly for rafters. Beside this, a lot of information on
the natural attractions: Lakes, swamps, woods; a small collection of maps.
Mari ethnos and language
English:
Russian and/or Mari:
Resources for individual attractions
This is a provisional list. The references will eventually be relegated
to the pages describing individual attractions.
English:
Russian:
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